Today, we visited my mother's hometown,

Sugamo, to see my aunt and our old friend Kentarou. I should mention that everytime I tell a Japanese person that my mother is from Sugamo, I get a big chuckle and, loudly, the ubiquitious, "Heeeee?" This is because, as my mate Stephen pointed out, Sugamo is "Harajuku for old people."

People say that old folks are attracted to the fact that there are so many temples in Sugamo. Kinda similar to the old idea of finding religion because you're near the end of your life. It is really true -- there are so many little ancient people puttering around, and there's everything a little ancient person could want, like granny panty shops, shoes for 1000 yen, less traffic, and plenty of temple offering boxes to plunk your 10 yen into when you're hankering for some good fortune.

My dirty little secret is that I really like Sugamo. What's not to like? I mean, Sugamo is in Tokyo, on the famed Yamanote railway line -- 10 minutes from Shinjuku. There's never anyone at the station, so you can usually get a seat. It's super quiet, has plenty of delicious, cheap Japanese restaurants and very few annoying pachinko parlors, and is less expensive than the rest of Tokyo.

We met Kentarou at the station, along with the Horikawas, who met us there in case we needed some translation help (so thoughtful!). We then met up with my aunt, Kentarou's parents, and his wife Yuko and had lunch at a sugoi Japanese/French restaurant. Afterward, Kentarou took us to his new apartment to show us around. This apartment was amazing! Spare, simple penthouse space on the 5th floor, hardwood throughout, plenty of natural light, spiral staircase leading to a second floor living/kitchen area and deck.

Kentarou is an artist, but to make money he and his wife work in real estate law. Kentarou helped design the building, which houses his office on the first floor -- a faboo space with a whole glass block wall that allows in light resembling a shoji screen, industrial/autoshop style cabinets, and heavy polished steel doors. Kentarou, besides being kickass at art and design, is also one of the most courteous and sincere people I have the pleasure of knowing; in fact, everyone I ever introduce him to, Nihonjin or gaijin, always say the same thing -- "He's sooo nice!" It was so wonderful to see him -- married (and happy), successful, and still able to work on projects that feed his creative spirit.

We were happy to hear that today was the day for the Sugamo Bon Matsuri. Summer's matsuri are my reason for being. Sugamo's Bon Matsuri also involved my favorite summer festival pastime: traditional dancing accompanied by taiko. I love nothing more than to see all the brightly lit lanterns, smell all of the fantastic foods (today: okonomiyaki, takoyaki, and yakitori -- all cooked in sidewalk shanties), and see people of all ages in yukata and geta getting down circa the Edo period. Kentarou is great about cutting the rug matsuri-style, so Trevor, Yuko, and I joined him in our best imitation of the seasoned professionals surrounding us. Great fun.

Any crazy fashion today was overshadowed by the classy old ladies (and a Toshiro Mifune-like old man) in their beautiful, simple cotton yukata dancing long after young whippersnappers like us pooped out.