Let's English the adventure way

Trevor and I are spending a couple of days near Shibuya with our friend Kelly. She's got sweet digs right down the street from the Sangenjaya subway stop on the Hanzomon line. After looking at some shocking little boxes (it really doesn't seem fair to call them apartments) near Kichijoji a few days ago, I am fully envious.

It is normally difficult for gaijin to rent apartments, as many landlords are old school and still perceive gaijin as trouble or as difficult to communicate with. It's also difficult unless you have some fat cash -- after a deposit (2 months of rent) , first month's rent, and the rental agency fee (often one month's rent), you still must pay what's called reiken, or key money. No, it's not for the keys (although you most often have to pay for changing the locks too -- about $150). It's what I affectionately call "extortion." It's thank you money for allowing you to move in, and it's equal to up to 2 months of rent. AND you still have to buy your own fridge and gas range! Ugh. Many of the mini-storage-size spaces (literally -- no light, metal on the outside, the whole nine yards) that we were looking at would've been in the 4 or 5 thousand range. Luckily, the place we found in Kunitachi (23 minutes from Trevor's work on the Chuo rail line) is furnished and free of crap fees.

Today (Sunday) the streets near Kelly's house are closed to car traffic, and they are full of tiny old ladies and all of the sararimen out with their families on their one day off. There are some breakdancers, and a street singer with his own roadie and a professional soundboard. Never let it be said that the Japanese do anything half-assed.